Bucket List: Laxa i Kjos, Iceland
By Tony Fernandez:
Casting into a pool where fish leap and dragons rise brings emotions that cannot be found in many places. From the etched lava landscape to the clean cold water, Iceland offers anglers a backdrop to a story that will always begin with the statement, “It was the trip of a lifetime.”
With three trips in three consecutive years, I can use the all-too cliché fishing phrase, “I am hooked” on Iceland. Page after page can be written about the acrobatic Atlantic salmon, the headstrong pull of a sea-run brown trout, the rocky canyons, waterfalls, and the art of fishing a hitched tube-fly. There is so much that pulls an angler to Icelandic rivers.
For the past three years, I have spent the end of July fishing the Laxa i Kjos, a smaller river in southwestern Iceland about an hour from the capital city, Reykjavik. The river allows an angler to experience much of what Icelandic topography has to offer. From the large pools in the coastal beats, where an angler can’t help but stare out toward the Atlantic Ocean, to the meandering turns of the pastoral meadow sections, and deep narrow-cut canyons that carve the hillside until you reach Thorufoss, the impassable falls, home to a famous scene from the popular series “Game of Thrones.”
The landscape, at least to me, is secondary to those that accompany you on the journey. On this year’s trip, I was fortunate enough to return to the river with good friends: Brian, who has made the trip with me before; Kyle, a friend who would be experiencing this fabled land for the first time; and our guide Hrafn (Raven), who brings an entire new appreciation to the fly fishing guide world with a persona that is somewhat mythical, just like the waters we were wading in.
Arriving in Iceland, most anglers have aspirations of watching a tube fly skate across the surface of crystal waters, witnessing the careful eat of the fly and the line going tight with the initial run of one of the fly world’s most sought after quarry, an Atlantic Salmon. We were fortunate enough to be those anglers. The first fish of the trip was caught soon after arrival. It was a dime-bright fish of only 6 or so pounds that still had the power to get the reel deep into its backing. There is no better way to begin a fishing journey than when it all comes together early on. We knew we would be experiencing yet another trip of a lifetime.
With the sun only slightly hitting the horizon and a brief glimpse of darkness for what seems like only minutes, the days are filled with subtle takes of the fly, followed by sips of Brennivin, cast and repeat. We ended the trip in the same fashion as it started. Another sleek salmon peels line and leaps. At the end of the run, Raven dips the net and we release the fish to bid farewell for what is hopefully only another year until we return.
With Raven being the pilot, Brian, Kyle and I explored areas that have been experienced by few. Targeting trophy fish in such a landscape with close friends only solidifies the need for one to explore, be bewildered and experience life events that shape you as a person. Iceland will leave your soul fulfilled but still wanting more.
Trip details:
- Overnight flights from JFK last five and half hours and arrive in Reykjavik early the next day, allowing travelers to stop in at the local fly shop, Veidihornid, with ample time to check into the lodge and get on the water the first day.
- Most Trips consist of two half and two full days on the water, with morning and evening beats lasting six hours. The Kjos is broken into four beats. Each angler will fish each beat at least once with no other anglers from the group crossing paths during a day. Each beat is broken into marked pools that are carefully monitored by the lodge’s guides and river wardens to ensure fishing is done on the most productive stretches.
- The Kjos only allows a certain number of anglers at any time. The Kjos allows two rods per beat or up to four anglers. Our group split two rods amongst three people, allowing for two of us to be fishing and one resting.
- The fishery consists of Atlantic Salmon ranging from Grilse to 70-100cm fish. The meadows beat holds trophy sea-run brown trout with fish reaching the 12- to 15-pound range. The river also holds resident brown trout that seem to always be eating caddis on the surface.
- The hospitality on the Kjos is second to none. All meals are prepared by an awarded chef. Icelandic fare of Lamb, Langoustine Lobster and Atlantic Cod seems to always make up the menu on the Kjos.
- Booking can be accomplished through Roxtons UK. I would highly recommend a few days in Iceland with necessary stops at the Blue Lagoon and time spent in downtown Reykjavik.
The Gear:
- Rod: Fast Action 9-foot 5,6 or 7wt
- In my bag: JP Ross Black Dog 9-foot 6wt
- Line: Weight forward for punching in the wind
- In my bag: Cortland Compact Float 250 grain
- Waders and Boots: Light solid boots with studs, waders that can take a beating
- In my bag: Patagonia Rio Gallegos, Patagonia Foot Tractors
- Flies: Size 14-18 Hitched Tubes, Sunray Shadows, Red and Black Frances, small nymphs. Most flies are fished on micro treble hooks