By Joe Edge
[dropcap]F[/dropcap]or those of you that have heard of Walkers Cay over the years, much has changed since the hurricanes of 2004. The property damage was but a microcosm, what it did to the residents of Grand Cay was but an indicator of their resolve to recover and prosper. They have done that slowly but surely, but it’s still a struggle.
I began my annual treks to Walkers Cay and now Grand Cay in the early 90s starting with a couple trips a year to extended trips now that last three to four weeks at a time from April to December. Like many others, befriending the locals of Grand Cay is the easiest task of all. They are all honorable god fearing people who have the same passion we do, the boating and fishing life and a healthy respect for the fishery. My trips got better and better the day I met who would become one of my best friends in the whole world, Mr. Craig Cephas, who used to be the first mate on the Duchess captained by Capt. Billy Black of Walkers Cay fame.
When I was in the U.S. Navy in the late 70s and 80s, I always looked forward to reading about the fishing exploits for Capt. Billy Black and Flip Pallot and dreamt of the day I would meet one of them. Now I am honored to call Billy and Craig my closest friends.
Walkers Cay and Grand Cay are located about 100 miles due east of Stuart, Florida on the east side of the Bahama Bank, the northern most islands in the Bahamas chain. Since the hurricanes destroyed Walkers in 2004, the fishery for all intents and purposes has been untouched. To say the fishing there is awesome is an understatement. Besides the infamous Rosie’s, there are also other venues offering dockage, eateries and hotels on the cay such as Sassie Cassie, Ron’s Hot Spot, Josie Wales, Max’s Club Med and Jollies.
One of the things that has always kept me coming back to Walkers and Grand Cay has been the fact that it’s far enough away but close enough. I have always found places like West End and Bimini more like going to West Palm and Miami, great places, just too crowded for me. Those that have been to Walkers and Grand know the personality of the islands and its residents and the value it offers as a fishery and vacation spot. The local beaches are pristine, fishing is incredible on a bad day and the people second to none. Some of us are actually considered locals or “Conchy Joes” because we spend so much time there.
The son of the former owner of Walkers Cay, John Abplanalp, said a long time ago, “Walkers Cay is a place where you either get it or you don’t.” There are some that come there that don’t get it and then there is a group of diehards, me included that will always go back in lieu of anywhere else in the Bahamas. We get it!
There are many on Grand Cay that rely on us for more than just charters and customers of their docks, eateries and hotels. Providing some of the necessities of life is something I always have done with pleasure. We in Florida just don’t realize how lucky we are and sharing what we have with those on the cay that bring us such pleasure is an honor. The next time you buy a case of water at Walmart, think of those on Grand Cay that pay $30 for that same case.
Let’s talk fishing. There are those on the cay that have their own specialities in fishing and are eager to share them with us when we “reach.” I have always highly recommended that if you are not a frequent visitor or have never been, taking a local with you fishing is the best money you will ever spend. From catching fish to avoiding the reef, you want to make sure your vacation is enjoyable from beginning to end.
So you want to go offshore fishing, Craig Cephas or DJ are the guys you want. Mutton fishing or diving for hogs look for Boss or Prince, island hopping or bottom fishing Hilton and Jason Brown would be great choices. When you come back in from fishing, there are guys at the dock that will gladly clean your catch and your boat from a very reasonable amount. Some of the best eateries on the cay are Ron’s Hot Spot, Etta J’s Take Out and of course Rosie’s.
For the record, Walkers Cay is still open to land aircraft as well as clear customs but there is no commercial airline service. Yes you need a passport to clear customs, no exceptions. Rumors have abounded for years of the sale of Walkers Cay. Frankly I will believe it when they show up to repair the damage and restore the marina. Until then .. The White House on Big Grand recently did sell but the rumors of the terms of the deal are too varied to report here so I will just leave it at that.
If you are a serious angler looking for a big blue marlin, a diver looking for some huge hogfish or just a recreational fisherman looking for some fun in the sun, Grand Cay is da place boi.
On a serious closing note, hogfish have to be at least 18-inches, stone crabs and lobster have a season, as do Nassau grouper and conch. The laws differ greatly on what you can take back on a boat and what has to fly back on a plane. Educate yourself before you go. Ignorance is rarely an excuse to the Bahamian fisheries officials. Respect the fishery!
I often refer to Grand Cay as the best kept secret in the Abacos, so shhhhhhhhh don’t tell anyone.