By Christopher Batin
There are times in an angler’s life when only the best Alaska fishing adventure will do. It’s those special moments such as taking an elderly parent fishing for the last time, making a lasting impression in a business meeting worth multi-million dollars, or just a personal adventure where you don’t have to worry about cooking, cleaning, or cutting bait, only indulging yourself in the crème de le crème of saltwater fishing.
Steamboat Bay Fishing Club recently opened its doors in 2013 to do just that: Offer a total fishing indulgence that is destined to set the standard for five-star fishing lodges, anywhere. The reasons are obvious.
“The fishery is one of the best in the world,” says Steamboat general manager Steve Cockrell. “Here the upwelling currents from the continental shelf offer tons of feed for salmon, rockfish, lingcod and halibut. The area is also a migration route for large king, coho, chum and pink salmon. We call Steamboat a club because it’s for anglers who expect the very best service and pampering in a one-cost, all-inclusive package.”
The fish are not only plentiful, but also big on the frontier’s edge. 200-pound halibut. Coho to 20 pounds. These are, however, only “warm-ups” for hooking into royalty. When a 30 to 60-pound king hits a mooched herring, and takes off to the Far East, there’s no questioning this is the place to be for big, saltwater-fueled salmon. It’s as if these kings bulk up on salmon growth hormones. They are bulky, powerful and often kick butt on most anglers. Do your workouts. I’m sure glad I did when I hooked my kings last year.
The lodge has a rich history. In the early 1900s, canneries were built in this region because the salmon runs are among the best on earth, and still are. With the canneries came the fish pirates, the Wild West version of stagecoach and train robbers. I enjoyed listening to the old timers talk about gunfights that took place over pens of salmon waiting to be processed.
You’ll still experience pirates there. On one trip to this area, I had a 700-pound-plus bull sea lion try to steal an 80-pound halibut I had hooked. I managed to tear it loose and surf it to the boat. The lion was in hot pursuit and just as the guide gaffed and we power-lifted the fish into the boat, the lion erupted from the ocean at boat side, angry and roaring with every intent of coming onboard to steal back that fish. My guide banged the gunwales with a metal priest before the lion finally gave up. Never a dull moment when fishing Steamboat waters.
Forget about spending an hour or two to access fishing grounds. You can catch fish in sight of the lodge, or a 20-minute run just around the corner of Noyes Island. The boats are aluminum Almar craft with dual outboard motors, modern sonar and GPS technology and plenty of deck space. First-class fishing gear is included in the price, along with experienced, Coast Guard-certified guides. When the weather doesn’t cooperate, a heated and enclosed cabin makes for a comfortable sanctuary.
To build Steamboat, local artisans used reclaimed timber and materials from the long-abandoned cannery on site. Expect refined elegance, mixing the old with the new to create a cozy, yet elegant lodge in a wonderfully idyllic setting of mountain and rainforest.
I found the six waterfront rooms to offer a fabulous view of the bay. Each is superbly decorated, with wood-burning stoves and deck access.
After being out on the water all day, you may prefer the forest view rooms, which offer a superb panorama of the Tongass National Forest.
The cathedral ceiling and ambiance of the lodge main room is perfect for social discussions over the size fish your friend caught, supported by an open bar with a fine selection of wine, beer, spirits and cigars. When the fishing is done for the day, take a hike a nature trail or relax in the Club Room with big-screen TV to review video clips from the day’s fishing. Many prefer to sit and watch wildlife from the massive, oceanfront deck, take a dip in the hot tub or relax in the sauna. Clothes dirty from a sea lion hissing spit at you? No problem, guest laundry is included in the price.
Because the lodge takes a maximum of 16 guests at a time, expect to be pampered by a staff with over 30 years’ experience. An executive chef will customize your meals based on your personal preferences, or order from the menu with a variety of gourmet seafood appetizers and entrees. The lodge’s on-site garden provides organic greens throughout the season.
What I observed on my sneak-peak, grand opening visit to Steamboat last year is that the club offers a fishing trip of a lifetime, one that you may want to experience again and again.
Access: Steamboat Bay Fishing Club and Lodge is located in southeast Alaska near Ketchikan, a short 90-minute flight from Seattle. Make plans to arrive early and spend an extra day touring Ketchikan. I spent time snorkeling along the beachfront, and I was amazed at the amount of marine life I observed.
We were met in Ketchikan by lodge reps who helped us retrieve our bags and guide us to the floatplane for the flight to Steamboat. The lodge will have it professionally cut, packed, flash frozen and boxed to accompany you on your flight. www.waterfallresort.com/steamboat-bay
[easy-social-share]