Cobia are a familiar sight in Tampa Bay all summer into late or mid-October, depending on to water temperature. In Tampa Bay, they range in size from 30 inches on the flats to 48 inches around structure and wrecks. Cobia must be at least 33 inches long from the fork of the tail in order to be legal.
Greenback, sardines, threadfins, blue crabs, grunts and pinfish are the baits of choice. I find an area of grass flats close to a channel or drop off. I prefer the water depth around 2 to 4 feet. I then start by chumming for the bait with a mixture of tropical fish food, menhaden oil and some salt water mixed to a cream of wheat texture. The secret to chumming is not to feed the bait, but attracting them to the boat. I prefer to use green 10-foot 3/8 mesh bait net. I find the color green works best and I believe it blends better in the water and increases my catch.
A live well is a must to have on any boat. If you don’t have one, portable units can be purchased at most tackle stores. A good live well needs to be at least 26 gallons or bigger with a 1100 gallon an hour pump–the larger the better. Most boats come equipped with a live well system from the factory or are ready to be plumbed for one. Unless you are a handyman type, I suggest you find a local shop to install it. Most applications require making a hole through your hull to install a pick up tube.
Ok, now we caught our baits, but what are we to do next? Start cutting some bait in half and make a large pile on the cutting board. Next, toss pieces into the water around the boat. Remember, you are anchored in 3 to 4-feet of water. Now, just wait for the rays to start showing up. Southern rays or brown rays are attracted to you chumming and with them come the cobia. Remember, cobia like structure and are lazy feeders. But, as the rays move in on the scent of the chum, with them come the cobia. Rays stir the bottom up with their wings in order to feed and this brings up all the small shrimp, crabs and pieces of chum to the surface.
The cobia will be just under the rays or next to them picking the pieces of bait the rays leave behind. Toss a live pinfish, greenback, shrimp or crab at them and hold on. A word of caution, leave the bail open on the reel until the cobia get at least 20 feet from the boat before you set the hook, or they will head for the nearest structure which is your boat. I have several broken rods at home to remind me of this costly mistake.
The first thing that comes to mind when someone says cobia fishing in Tampa Bay is buoy tending. This is the ritual of running from one buoy (channel markers/range markers) to another looking for cobia hanging around them during the slack tide periods. Cobia is a structure-oriented fish that likes wrecks, buoys and anything that creates a shadow line. Buoy tending is a method that works, but is expensive on the pocket book with gas prices so high. The term early bird gets the worm applies in this case. The first anglers to the buoys have the best shot at catching them.
Approach up current from the marker with a live bait ready to go. When a cobia is sighted, toss up current allowing the bait to drift toward the fish rather than throwing the bait on top and spooking it. I use a large float such as a Blue Water Thunder with 3 feet of 50-pound test fluorocarbon leader and a 3/0 circle hook. Cobia can be picky eaters and, in some cases, refuse your offer. Don’t waste time. Run to the next buoy or range marker and start all over again.
An anchor lock is a great invention. Get within casting distance of the structure and press the button letting your trolling motor hold you on location. I wish they were around years ago. It would have made cobia fishing a lot easier.
On the flats I prefer a medium action spinning outfit with 20-pound test Fins Windtamer braided line, 40-pound fluorocarbon leader and 3/0 circle hook.
For buoy tending, a heavier outfit is needed. Either a large spinning outfit with 40-pound test Fins Windtamer test braided line, 50-pound test fluorocarbon leader and again a 3/0 or 4/0 circle hook.