By: Mike Hammond
While there have been many changes on the coastal islands of Lee County in recent years, one thing remains the same: Paddling Hardworking Bayou and the Wulfert Keys within the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge is still an incredible experience.
Ding Darling’s Wildlife Drive features two marked paddlecraft launches. The first launch is near the beginning of the 4-mile scenic drive. While it provides convenient access to the water, the area is often busy with photographers, birders and other refuge visitors. Additionally, I prefer not to disturb the birds that gather on the nearby flats, which attract many visitors hoping to observe wildlife.
The second launch, located about 3 miles down Wildlife Drive, is typically much quieter. A small crushed-shell beach provides easy water access, and the protected cove is surrounded by mangroves on all sides. From here, paddlers can follow mangrove tunnels along the roadway that lead to Hardworking Bayou. Heading south, paddlers emerge near one of the fishing piers over a culvert beneath Wildlife Drive.
Hardworking Bayou offers a variety of habitats, including deep mangrove-lined holes, shallow flats and three cuts leading into Pine Island Sound. These cuts provide the easiest public paddlecraft access to the Wulfert Keys. Designated as a No Motor Zone, the Wulfert Keys offer outstanding opportunities for anglers. Some Sanibel residents have access to parking permits that can make launching closer to the area more convenient, though the details are beyond the scope of this article. For those interested in learning more about fishing access around Sanibel, Capt. Whitney Jones of Whitney’s Bait & Tackle and Sanibel Fly Outfitters is always willing to answer questions and share local knowledge.
For paddlers who are more interested in wildlife viewing than fishing, Ding Darling is internationally recognized for its exceptional birding opportunities and abundant wildlife. During my most recent paddle, I encountered roseate spoonbills, numerous wading birds, several manatees and lots of dolphins. Nature enthusiasts should also make time to visit the refuge’s visitor center, which is scheduled to reopen in October.
Wildlife Drive is open daily from 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., except on Fridays when it is closed. There is a $10 per vehicle entrance fee, and restrooms are available about one mile before the second launch. Because Wildlife Drive is a one-way, visitors should plan accordingly. Check the refuge’s webpage to tidal information. Here’s a tip for you: The tide is on the same schedule as the Cape Coral Bridge, not Sanibel beaches.
For visitors who do not have their own paddlecraft or can only paddle on a Friday, a wonderful alternative is Tarpon Bay. The outfitter has rental kayaks, gear, merchandize and staff who will help you onto the water. There are plenty of angling opportunities as well. More information on Tarpon Bay can be found at tarponbayexplorers.com.
Whether your goal is fishing, wildlife photography, birding or simply enjoying a peaceful paddle through one of Southwest Florida’s most iconic natural areas, Hardworking Bayou and the Wulfert Keys continue to offer a memorable experience on the water.