By Greg Mendoza
“We are remote, virgin, pristine, with no noise, no ATMs, no malls, no traffic, no pollution, no swimming pools and no golf courses!” was the initial e-mail reply I received from Arnette Chisolm, co-owner of Chester’s Highway Inn Bonefish Lodge on Acklins Island. Perfect. Exactly what I’m looking for, I thought to myself.
Having fished Andros, Abaco, and Exuma the past few years, I was looking for a new island to explore. Frankly, I was also looking to get away from other fishermen! Anyone who fishes the Indian River Lagoon system here in Central Florida knows what I’m talking about. Chasing bonefish with a fly rod is my love, so I try to make one or two fishing destination trips a year, one of which is always to The Bahamas for the Gray Ghosts of the flats. Its proximity to Florida, easy access, beautiful and uncrowded waters and diverse fishery makes it a top choice. The fun part is researching (dreaming) what island and waters to try next.
After scouring the Internet and exchanging e-mails, I booked a three-day fishing trip for mid October. I knew there would not be many traveling fishermen this time of year, and if the weather held up, the fishing would be good. Planning a trip anywhere in the Caribbean in October is always chancy with the hurricane season active.
I arrived on the Saturday flight from Nassau (there’s only 2 flights a week) and was met by Julius and Arnette Chisolm. During the 45-minute drive to the lodge, they explained how everything is shipped on the mail boat that arrives three times a month from Nassau. All supplies have to be ordered well in advance. Preparation for everything is key to their success. There are no groceries or convenience stores to run into when you need something.
After unpacking and eating a hearty lobster bisque for lunch, I had a few hours to try the gorgeous flat right in front of the lodge. I was skeptical, since I figured it gets pressured being so close to the lodge.
I thought at the very least I can get in a few practice casts and get my eyes adjusted to the flats. Was I wrong! Within minutes I spotted a school of happy bones. As I positioned myself to intercept them, about 10 clear tails danced above the surface approximately 40 feet in front with no sense I was there. No way could this be happening so quickly, I thought to myself. One cast later my reel was singing the outgoing clicking sound I never get tired of. I was hooked up with what turned out to be a 20-inch bone. I was in heaven on this remote island catching fish on my own, and my three full days of guided fishing hadn’t even started!
Over the next three days, my guide Jacob took me to flats all around the Bight of Acklins. We waded some and boat fished most, depending on the stage of the tide. We never saw another fisherman or flats boat, even from neighboring Crooked Island. The fishing was spectacular to say the least. I landed more than 20 bones over the first two days, with the largest fish measuring 25 and 31 inches. There were always a few sharks around when we got into action, so be careful, especially when you’re fighting and landing a fish. The weather turned on us on day three, so we went barracuda fishing with light tackle in a little deeper water. It’s always good to bring a travel spinning rod for times like this.
Accommodations at Chester’s were clean, spacious and comfortable. The meals prepared by Julius and Arnette were outstanding. They provide kayaks and bikes for going around after fishing too. Their hospitality and friendship is something I will always remember, and because of them, I am already planning return trips.
Make sure you pack plenty of good bug repellent and anything else you think you may need. Don’t forget your backup rods either. As mentioned earlier, there’s no running into a sporting goods or convenience store for supplies.
Acklins also has many wadeable flats you can drive to for the DIY angler. If you’re serious about bonefishing and want to try a more remote island but don’t want to travel halfway around the world, you should put Acklins Island on your bucket list. Don’t forget to bring an open mind and your sense of adventure.
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