by Capt Ed Wiser
[dropcap]I[/dropcap]t never fails. Every March I get calls from frustrated boat owners who tried to head out for their first day of Spring fishing only to find the boat is far from ready to go. They encounter a number of problems. Fuel left in the tank over the winter has gone bad and clogged filters, injectors, or carbs. Grease on the steering tilt tube has congealed with the January freezes and the steering is hopelessly locked up. Batteries are dead, or worse, fried because the charger was left running and it boiled out the water. Perhaps they try to turn on their electronics to find that the cable terminals have corroded in the months of winter lay up. And of course, there is always a problem with one of the pumps. The list goes on, but the solution is obvious and painless – winterize your boat and motor now while you have time and the repairmen are available. This will save money and your fishing days in the Spring when everyone is trying to get work done at the same time. It will give you time to make repairs you have put off and to not lose your rare fishing days because of parts delays. And we all know the story of trying to get an engine serviced in April or May. Everyone rushes in at once and the shops have backlogs of weeks of work.
Don’t let it happen to you. Boat repairmen are sitting around now with little or nothing to do. Take advantage of this to get your boat set up for Spring. They will be able to focus on your job instead of balancing many owners, all in a hurry to get on the water. Here’s what you need to do to save money and be ready for April.
1. Have your engine serviced while the shops are empty. is should include at a minimum dropping the lower unit to replace the impeller, change all fluids in lower unit and powerhead if applicable. Change any and all fuel and oil filters. If you do not have a spin-on type fuel/ water separator this is the time to install one. It can save you hundreds in repair bills. Inspect fuel lines and all fittings and clamps for serviceability. If your engine is a later model, take it to a certified mechanic with the appropriate computer so ware for a diagnostic test. Catch incipient problems before they become costly failures.
2. Check dates and serviceability on ares and re extinguishers. Check for serviceability of dock lines, anchor lines, PFDs, and other gear.
3. Service the steering gear. Never put grease on the tilt tube or the stainless steering bar. It will congeal during the winter freezes and may be impossible to get free. Grease also collects dirt and debris which gets inside the tube. Use T-9 Boeshield to lubricate and clean the parts. It also loosens dirt for easy removal with a rag. The steering components need to be kept free of dirt and corrosion for long and reliable service. Never use grease on a boat except for grease nipples designated for the purpose.
4. Remove the cowling and spray the engine top to bottom with Boeshield. It penetrates the pores of the paint and metal protecting from corrosion and seizure of metal parts. NEVER USE WD-40 ON A BOAT FOR ANY REASON. It is a relatively poor lubricant and gums up and discolors everything it touches.
5. Take bracket mounted electronics and batteries inside for the winter. Spray the back of the electrical panel with T-9 Boesheild. e product itself is not flammable but the propellant is, so turn off the power first. Corrosion on electrical switches, breakers, and fuses is the most common electrical problem on small craft used in salt water.
6. Get all water out of the boat. It can freeze, expand, and may cause damage. Fiberglass is porous and sitting water can penetrate and weaken the laminate. If it freezes then you can have a real problem. Keep drains free of debris too.
7. Don’t forget the trailer. If feasible, jack it up and rest the axle on blocks to relieve pressure on tires. Check the lights and replace/repair as necessary.
8. Wash the boat thoroughly before winter lay up.
9. Either ll tanks to the top or remove all gas from the tanks. With mixed fuel this is essential. It will go bad over the winter and cause expensive problems later. Partially filled tanks let in moist winter air. Changes in humidity and temperature lead to internal condensation and an accumulation of water in the tank. Diesel is usually OK for many, many months or years.
10. I could go on but the Editor says I am out of room. See you next month with boat buying tips