By Nadeen Welch:
Mike and I decided it was time to get out of Dodge and take a road trip with our flats boat. The hustle and bustle of south Florida makes this kind of trip a stark contrast and welcome break. We ended up on Useppa, a small island between Pine Island and Cabbage Key on the southwest coast of Florida. These places are almost due west of Fort Myers near the mouth of Charlotte Harbor. The path that led us there was anything but ordinary. It was as if we were being beckoned.
My first contact with Useppa was from the Palm Beach Boat Show in March. I attended a media event at the Lake Pavilion on the Waterfront and discovered an oasis in the midst of all the craziness of the boat show. It was a gorgeous photo of Useppa Island: paradise without a passport, with an inviting area to relax during the media event. There were some goodies there and information, which I grabbed. That photo just seemed to call to me.
We had planned to visit the west coast in the coming weeks, a trip to Bokeelia, on the north end of Pine Island, to fish. Once we finalized the dates, I reached out to Brian and Mary—the Useppa People, who are realtors. They invited us to visit the Private Island Club, have lunch at the historic Collier Inn, and then took us on a golf cart tour of the island. There are no roads here, only golf cart paths and walkways. My kind of island! It just seemed magical.
We were invited to come back for an overnight visit to experience the island. Brian and Mary made the arrangements for us to return and visit as their guests. So, we loaded the car, hooked up the boat and were off. Pine Island Sound here we come!
We stopped in Matlacha and made a phone call to the Pineland Marina to check on bait. Good call. They were out of shrimp. We visited Carrie at the Barnhill Seafood Market in Matlacha who loaded us up with 200 monster shrimp. There was a stream behind the shop where we could get a few buckets of water to transport the shrimp safely to the marina. When you are on an island, you need to be proactive about supplies. Consider travel distances on the water to get what you need, and that options can be limited.
We launched the boat; I drove to park for the weekend and was greeted with a golf cart escort to the ramp. Headed out the cut from the marina, it feels as if you are soaring—having been set free from civilization and traffic. The waterways are expansive, and there are multiple mangrove cuts around every turn. There is so much water, so many cuts and areas to explore. The seagrass beds have expanded in the area 10 percent since the storms of 2008. The abundance of shoalgrass and turtlegrass has increased while the abundance of manatee grass has remained stable. In fact, the number of quadrants monitored in the area that are devoid of seagrass has decreased by 50 percent since 2005. This all makes for some clean water and great fishing.
Our first visit to Bokeelia, we limited on seatrout every day. On our trip to Useppa a month later, we encountered mostly snook and a monster red, caught by Mike on the next to last shrimp! And there are always tarpon to be found.
Nadeen Welch is co-publisher of the Fort Myers edition of Coastal Angler Magazine.