Digging Deep for Doormat Fluke

Simple, single-hook rigs generally work best for big fluke. Add a skirt above the hook if the water is murky or discolored. Wide-gap style fluke hooks have the holding power necessary to battle double-digit brutes. Photo by Tom Schlichter.
Simple, single-hook rigs generally work best for big fluke. Add a skirt above the hook if the water is murky or discolored. Wide-gap style fluke hooks have the holding power necessary to battle double-digit brutes. Photo by Tom Schlichter.

Early June is the point at which fluke season kicks into high gear. For the first month or so of the season, inconsistent water temperatures can quickly turn the action on and off. By this time, however, temperatures are generally stable and the inshore scene has come alive. That’s exactly why anglers flock to the bays and inlets to get in their flatfishing – fast action within an easy drive from port.

No doubt, they’ll be plenty of keepers taken from the shallows this month but the biggest summer flatties are still likely to patrol the ocean bottom for a few more weeks before sliding fully inshore. With just that thought in mind, here’s a bevy of tips on connecting with June keepers of the bragging type – the size guaranteed to draw double-takes when you get back to the dock.


Using larger baits is one way to entice big fluke while discouraging smaller ones from biting. That’s common knowledge among fluke fans these days but there is more to this theory than simply loading up the hook. The mistake many anglers make when using larger baits is not allowing the fish enough time to get those big offerings swallowed deep enough for a sure hook set.

Keeping in mind that ocean waters may still be a little cool, especially at the start of the month, it’s important to “let ’em chew.” Rather than set the hook as soon as you feel a bite, free-spool several yards of line when you sense a strike. You can then re-engage the reel, allow the line to come taught and gently lift the rod tip to see if there is any additional weight at the end of your line. If so, continue the rod lift – adding a little bit more snap – to drive home the point.

As for what kind of bait to use, squid strips work just fine but bunker, bluefish and mackerel strips are also worthy of consideration, especially if any of these species are in the area. Don’t go crazy on the size thing. Large baits should be pennant shaped and measure six to ten inches long but keep the strip width to no more than one inch wide at any point.

It’s the thin width of a well-presented strip, I think, that really turns on the biggest fluke. While wide, heavy strips tend to bunch up on the hook and often spin at the end of the line, slender strips dance enticingly as you drift along making them appear much more life-like. Slicing the last two inches of the strip at the narrow end provides even more flutter.

All strip baits, including those cut from squid, should be hooked only once – through the wide end – so they ride straight out behind the bend of the hook. If you want to tip your strip bait, opt for a single large spearing or smelt.


Small fluke and even mini-doormats can be quite aggressive, often following baits and
multi-hook rigs with plenty of bling right to the surface in shallow water. Big doormats in
deeper water, on the other hand, tend to exercise more caution making a slow, natural presentation your best bet. Therefore, it is probably a good idea to forego the use of bright and shiny spinners, chrome fluke balls and all the bells and whistles that are designed to catch anglers as much as fish. There is a time and place for all the adornments later in the season as water temperatures climb, fluke slide into the shallows and competition for food grows intense, but for now just keep things clean and simple.

If you want to add a little something to try and catch a doormat’s interest, slide one or two red, florescent pale green or pearl colored beads onto the leader so they rest tight against the hook eye. This subtle addition can make a big difference when the water is slightly discolored. The pale green beads work especially well at Montauk and Shinnecock while pearl or red beads are best on the West End and any place bunker are highly visible.


There are times when big fluke are known to feed most heavily – fish them seriously. Most large fluke are caught at the beginning and end of moving water. Some monsters are also taken during slack tide, much to the chagrin of those who choose the quiet water period to enjoy their lunch.
In general, the biggest fluke are least likely to expend a lot of energy when chasing food. Thus, they tend to hunker down during the strongest periods of current and feed more freely as things settle down. Mid-tide is fine for targeting keepers and smaller fish but if you want a spring doormat, work the end stages and slack water. Traditionally, the top of the flood and beginning of the ebb are the best times for big spring keepers.


I love to use light tackle for fluke fishing, but it’s just not practical for greeting newly arrived fluke in ocean waters. Deep-water probing means dealing with stronger currents and more sinker weight to hold bot-tom and keep your baits in the strike zone. Put aside the 12- and 14-pound class spin- ning sticks and opt for a conventional set- up spooled with 15- to 30-pound test line. Choose a fairly stiff rod with a tip that can handle four to ten ounces of lead. If you plan to fish in water deeper than 30 feet, braided line gets the nod over monofilament.

Keep in mind that early season fluking in ocean waters can run a bit on the picky side. With fewer hook-ups in general, but a better chance at tempting a doormat than later in the year, you’ll need to make the most of every strike. A stiff set-up allows you to set the hook with leverage, feel the bottom in strong currents, and handle a surging doormat if you get lucky. Take no chances where gear is concerned – beef up and be ready.


With miles and miles of open water ahead as you power out of the inlet, there’s a tendency to be overwhelmed when it comes to choosing a spot to drop your lines. Most skippers simply look for the fleet, pick a lane and drift along with everyone else. A better idea is to check your charts and target specific areas where you think the fluke might stack up on their inshore migration.
Instead of making long drifts over nothing but sandy bottom with little in the way of depth changes, try to isolate an area on the charts that shows sloping depth changes or a little bit of rough bottom and concentrate on working it with shorter probes.

Reefs, for example, are doormat magnets as the bottom hugging predators patrol the edges of submerged rubble in search of crabs, bergalls and other small cellar dwellers. The slopes leading into and out of troughs are another excellent choice, as are the fringes of shoals located in 40- to 60-foot depths.

Any significant slope is also worth a try as it allows you sample the action across varying depths over a short period of time. Hook more than one fish at any particular depth and you have a good idea of how deep most of the fish should be holding.