By Lisa Helme Danforth
“Where is Belize?” is the question we’ve been asked most often. Simple answer? Practically right next door. Belize shares a border with Quintana Roo, Mexico to the north and Guatemala to the west. Nestled in the crook of the Yucatan Peninsula and about the size of Connecticut, this small, English speaking country has slipped under the radar to date but its debut is coming. United has started direct flights from NJ to Belize City, and there are also direct flights from Miami, Houston and Atlanta. More hotels are committed to building the sustainable infrastructure needed to house in comfort the anglers who are discovering its delights and coming here in increasing number, and the 10 minute puddle jumper from Belize City to Ambergris Caye is much faster and more fun than the taxi ride home from the airport!
Belize is a small country that – with exception – is bent on protecting its resources, especially Ambergris Caye, where we were headed to pursue the Super Slam (catching Permit, Bone sh, Tarpon and Snook in one day.)
Ambergris Caye is a small 25 mile long, 1-2 mile wide island off the coast which sits along a section of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, one of the largest coral structures in the world, even visible from space. The reef supplies nutrients and shelter to the smaller fish, which attract the larger fish, and you get it. An anglers dream.
We were headed to Belize with 3 missions: Snorkel the Hol Chan Reserve again – our favorite in the world – fly fish the flats for bonefish – a first for us – and check out an intriguing investment opportunity in Mahogany Bay Village on the southern end of the Island. We were delighted with all three missions and will be headed back soon to pursue them all.
We were fortunate to head to Belize in June which is the start of the breeding season for many fish, including bonefish and permit. Schools of enormous tarpon – sometimes 100 fish altogether- laze
in the waters feeding. Flying in you could see the bottom clearly. The view is truly breathtaking, and we were anxious to drop our bags and get in the water. The friendly driver from Mahogany Bay was waiting for us when we landed and he whisked us the 10 minutes to the resort.
The snorkeling was magical. The protection of the reserve creates a cradle for schools of …well, everything. From tarpon to permit and bonefish, barracuda to nurse sharks, lovely corals to the sea grass beds that sustain the turtles and more, magical is the only word that applies to Hol Chan Reserve. This spot has to be on everyone’s bucket list for sheer diversity alone – 500 species of fish I’m told. Our friends at Mahogany Bay hooked us up with a great guide who knew the hiding holes and underwater caves, making the experience extraordinary. The crystal-clear water, and brilliance of the sea and the reef, even beat the Great Barrier Reef, IMO.
After a very late night of great cocktails, delicious food and dancing at Fidos we were up early to bend rods. We headed out of the canal at Mahogany Bay at 7 am and were quickly on the flats. Getting to where you want to be fishing quickly is a real benefit of fishing Belize, especially staying at Mahogany Bay. Located at the southern end of the island it is a quick trip up the Western Coast to the flats where our bonefish were waiting. If you are in the know and an early investor you can moor your fishing boat in your own slip on the canal and get yourself to the flats in a jiffy. But we were new to the waters and came quickly to rely on our guide’s experience and expertise.
Jeovanni Ortega of Bone sh Blue is a guide’s guide who has spent his life on Belizean waters. His knowledge of saltwater species, and especially their movements makes him successful not only at locating tarpon, bonefish, permit and more, but landing them as well. His patient guidance, supported by the wisdom passed on by his father, helped Mike defeat the high winds and land 5 beautiful bone sh (not record breakers, in the 4 lb range,) several jacks and 2 beautiful snappers.
We were especially intrigued by his boat which handled the chop much better than our own 21’ Hydrasport. His 21’ panga style boat is made of fiberglass locally by Capt. Sharks Boats. These boats are unique to the region and hugged the water despite the winds.
For the non-fishing crew there is the entertainment of passing private island after private island – “ at’s Leo DiCaprio’ Island”, “Oprah Winfrey stayed on that island last week,” “Ivanka Trump stayed in that cottage with her family.” Stunning. There are more than 200 islands. Those in the know are headed to Ambergris Caye for the sheer beauty, as well as the fishing!
As we quickly reached our destination, Jeovanni and crew cut the engine and started poling the shallow waters. Mike got to work with his casting rod and immediately mastered the wind, landing a record bone sh. Ok, not really. The truth is despite the best efforts of Jeovanni – who truly is a master – the winds won the day and Mike conceded to his spinner.
Once in control of the casting the fun began. Jeovanni had hooked us up with some small white worms he wouldn’t name – just smiled. His experienced eyes raked the water and the instruction began. He truly had x-ray vision and helped Mike place the lure practically on the heads of schools of bonefish. The bite was on and it was thrilling. Five nice bonefish, two snapper and a couple of jacks made for a great morning of catching. Whether you are new to flats fishing as we are, or a seasoned pro like so many of our friends at Coastal Angler, fishing Belize will thrill and delight you. Next time we’ll hunt the larger quarry outside of the reef!
Returning to Ambergris Caye is at the top of our bucket list! Thanks to our friends at Mahogany Bay Village who matched us with sensational guides for both snorkeling and fishing, making fishing Belize the experience of a lifetime – without breaking the bank! If you are searching for that magical home in the islands to invest in or just want to visit let us know. We would be happy to introduce you!
Lisacoastalanglermagazine@gmail.com
